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The fashion theorist Mahret Kupka then asks what happens after the end of fashion. NOT JUST A LABEL (NJAL) is an online platform for young fashion designers which has rapidly become one of the world’s most important global fashion portals, we talk to its founder and proprietor Stefan Siegel about the idea behind the enterprise, its extraordinary success and outlook for the future as well as presenting in Mads Dinesen a designer who distributes his collections through NJAL. Our exclusive photo series shot by Gerhardt Kellermann and Ana Relvão for this issue showcases accessories and garments that stand out from the crowd, whether by how they were designed or marketed or the industrial manufacturing process by which they were made. Fashion professor and designer Friederike von Wedel-Parlow also looks into the topic of fashion and sustainability for us, while the design critic Angharad Lewis analyses the not always easy relationship between typography and luxury labels, taking the works of Gareth Hague of Alias as an example. Last but not least, our materials columnist Mareike Gast reports on some interesting textile research projects.
In addition to our focal theme, we also meet the pugnacious British inventor James Dyson, whose comments on the relationship between design and technology raise a number of controversial talking points. A different kind of relationship, this time between design and art, was the theme of our discussion with the sculptor and set designer Alexander Polzin and the car designer Johannes Tovar, whom we met on the stage of the Great Festival Hall in Salzburg in the run-up to Salzburg Easter Festival. In our Discourse section, the design critic Peter Maxwell looks at how the ever greater availability of professional 3D printers will impact on design and what the cultural and legal consequences of this are likely to be. And finally Rosario Hurtado and Roberto Feo of El Ultimo Grito end the line-up with a passionate plea for a greater appreciation of functioning rather than just functionality in design.
Enclosed here as a supplement for our subscribers is the first ever issue of DING – Was Dinge mit uns machen (‘THING – what things do to us’) a new magazine created by students at Munich University of Applied Sciences. The project is the brainchild of the design department and specifically the course in design criticism initiated by Markus Frenzl. Not only did the students have to produce all the editorial content themselves, but they also had to organize the design and production of the whole issue. We were happy to support them in this endeavour since the promotion of young journalists who take an informed and critical approach to design is one of our own key objectives, too. Non-subscribers can purchase DING via for €10 including postage and packaging. Here’s wishing you a pleasant read.

Other Topics
2D3D4D: Böwer, Tatsu Matsuda, Monotype, Llot Llov, Harvard Graduate School +++ Short Cuts: Bouroullecs and BMW, Gric and Flos +++ Carte Blanche / Poster: Studio Hausen / Fermin Guerrero +++ On Show: The Food Project. The Shape of Taste; Lebbeus Woods, Architect +++ Books: I Used to Be a Design Student, Fabvolution, Pedal Project, Dekho et al. +++ Material Research: Our Textile Futures

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